What’s in a Name?

Santiago de Compostela is best known as a pilgrimage site. We found that it has a wonderful, happy vibe. And it wasn’t just the pretty weather.

So, who was Santiago, or, if you prefer, Santiago Matamoros, or Saint Iago, Jacob, or any number of other names and spellings? For example: James, son of Zebedee, James, brother of John, Saint James the Great, Saint James the Greater, St. James Son of Thunder, St. James the Major, Saint James the Elder, or Saint Jacob, James the Apostle or Santiago. Also Thiago or Diego, depending on your choice of languages. (San Diego, anyone?) Basically, he was one of the original Apostles, the second to die, the first to be martyred.

He is also the patron saint of Spain. 

According to Spanish belief, James made a trip to Iberia (Spain) to preach and, thereafter, returned to Judea, where he was beheaded by “Herod.” (Herod Agrippa?) There is a chapel in the Armenian sector of Jerusalem, on the site where it is said that he was beheaded and where it is believed that his head (at least) is still buried. Some part(s) of his body were then taken to Spain and buried at the site that would become Santiago. These relics were discovered in the 9th century and Santiago became a site of pilgrimage, a pilgrimage that continues to this day, the “Camino de Santiago.” (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camino_de_Santiago ) 

We crossed parts of the Camino during our travels in Germany and, last year, Carlos and Magy took us to the site of the battle of Clavijo, so we had already developed an affinity for Santiago. (https://diplostrat.net/2025/07/01/out-of-spain/ ) It was Saint James’ miraculous appearance at the Battle of Clavijo that routed the Moors and established him as the “Matamoros,” the Moor slayer. By the way, Carlos and Magy send their regards from Senegal, where they are awaiting the dry season in September. And they are still urging us to come join them on their trip to South Africa! (https://erg-adventure.com/2026/04/29/dejamos-atras-el-sahara-y-entramos-en-senegal/) 

A Happy Place

But back to Santiago de Compostela. We started our visit to the city by picking a camping location.  There were three possibilities and we picked the middle one because it was close to the bus route into town. It proved to be an excellent choice, the owner was most helpful and the services were excellent. And it was right on the Camino.

Our first morning, a Sunday, we set off to discover the town. Watching the pilgrims walking (or staggering!) in to the square by the cathedral has a lot of meaning, even to those of us who have not walked the Camino.  We have friends from Arlington who would be arriving the following day after walking just over 100 Km and we were excited to see them and congratulate them. We have other, overlander, friends who have also done part of the Camino.

We then went to the main square, Prazo do Obradoiro, in front of the Cathedral.  A huge open space, it thronged with arriving pilgrims, tourists and, on the Sunday afternoon, a children’s choir! The whole place simply has a happy feeling.

We started with the Museum of Pobo Galego, or the Museum of the Galician People, housed in a former convent. (https://museodopobo.gal/en ) On the way to the museum, we passed one side of the cathedrals and enjoyed the bells.

We had no idea that Galicia was so different from the rest of Spain. The language, Galego, is a mixture of Spanish and Portuguese and the culture is quite different. This Museum explained a lot and it was a great visit. 

Back on the square, we finally found the entrance to the cathedral, on a side street, and went inside for a look. The cathedral was built between the 11th and 13th centuries on the site of a 9th century basilica, and is one of the greatest Christian shrines, due to the fact that the apostle, St. James, is supposed to be buried there.

Along with all the other tourists, we passed behind the statue of St. James and touched his shoulders for luck.

It is an imposing cathedral with a huge botafumeiro, or incense censer which swings over a huge arc of at least 20 feet.

Monday morning our friends walked right by our campsite in the morning and recognized our truck. We had a quick consult and arranged to meet later in the day. They then continued their walk along the Camino. We, on the other hand, took the bus into town, to find it far more crowded than it had been on Sunday.  Tour groups galore!  The Museum we had hoped to visit turned out to be closed in spite of the information from our guide book. Grrr! So we went to the Museo Catedral de Santiago instead.  This included the Portico de la Gloria, which used to be the entry to the Cathedral  but is now blocked off and only visited for a fee! 

While we were visiting the Portico the Pilgrims’ Mass was concluding so we managed to see the botafumeiro swinging and to hear the magnificent organ. We regretted not attending the whole service.

We enjoyed a leisurely lunch, with a charming waiter and Cuban serenade, before meeting our friends in the square.

Denise wanted langoustinos and she got them!

After meeting up with our friends, we returned to our lunch restaurant for coffees, and to hear tales of the Camino. We then headed back on the bus and our friends went on to complete their pilgrimage. A very successful visit.